Unlike the early versions of the iPad the newer models have a different design that affects the way you repair the screen. If the screen broke on an earlier model you only had to replace the outer glass/Digitizer and the old LCD got reused. The iPad Air 2 was the first of the new models to have a design that has a fused outer glass/Digitizer with the LCD as one component. This new component is much more expensive than just the outer glass. That is no different in the new iPad Pros.
This iPad Pro 12.9" model was dropped and bounced down the stairs shattering the screen and making the device unusable. To repair this model you can buy a new screen and LCD combo to replace the broken one but you need to be aware of one little issue. If you do not have microsoldering skills you need to be sure to order a new screen that already has the Display Daughter Board soldered onto the back. Otherwise you will need to order that component separately and solder it into place so you will be able to connect the screen to the device.
The first step to getting this screen off is heat. Most hot plates and heating pads designed for this type of work are not large enough to heat the entire device at once so I recommend the old school way of using a heat gun and going around the edges until they are too hot to the touch after about 1 second. Find a place with no cracks if there is one and use a suction cup near the edge to pull up enough to get a flat tool like the iSesamo under the edge. Move side to side far enough to make the opening big enough to use a plastic spudger for the rest of the work. Slide the spudger carefully around all the edges reheating with the heat gun as needed. This screen is connected in the middle rather than along one of the sides like older models. You will need to unseal all edges before you carefully lift from the top of the device until you can see the connection. See below.
Now the next thing you need to do is remove the long EMI shield covering the logic board and then take out the single screw holding the battery connection. Slide something between the logic board and the battery connector underneath like I did with this red plastic razor blade. This disconnects the battery and makes it safe to disconnect the screen without blowing a backlight fuse.
Now you will see the three screws holding the screen to the logic board. Remove those screws and keep them organized for replacement. Once the screen is free you need to carefully remove the Touch ID enabled home button.
Be super careful when removing this home button because it is paired with this device and is the only home button that will have the Touch ID functionality. If you tear its super thin flex cable you have ruined that functionality and the only way to get it back is to go to Apple. They will take yours and give you one that was already refurbished and they will refurbish yours for the next guy. You can find videos on carefully removing this in our YouTube Channel. Be sure to super glue the home button bracket to the back of the glass because if you dont normal use can push the home button into the device and you will have another repair on your hands.
The next thing you need to do is clean up all the old adhesive from the aluminum housing and look for bends in the edge that would prevent a new screen from sitting flat. I use Goo Gone and a paper towel to clean up the adhesive. Once wet I scrape it with a metal scrap tool until it is all gone. Make sure it is completely dry before putting down more double sided sticky tape.
There is no substitute for Tesla Tape and if you use a cheap tape you will have the screen come up later. Tesla tape will hold it down until you apply heat to lift it up the next time you break it.
After all the tape is in place you need to leave the wax paper in place for testing. Attach the new screen and then reconnect the battery. Do you testing to make sure there are no dead spots in the digitizer by lifting an app icon ad moving it all around the screen. If it drops in the same place over and over you have a dead spot and need to use a different screen. Make sure to test the volume buttons, speakers, wifi antenna and the cameras before you seal it. If all that works it is time to remove the wax paper and stick the screen down.
I like to use clamps to hold the screen down for an hour or so just to be sure there is good contact everywhere. That does it, you have replaced the screen on your iPad Pro 12.9".